Kia Ora, The Plan

June 26, 2007

Welcome to the NZHAS Expedition blog.

We’ll be updating this site with news and info about the expedition as often as we can.

Please see the links above for profiles of the team members, info about the mountains and a list of our awesome sponsors and organisations who have given us their support.

So, the plan:

On August 22nd, we will leave New Zealand to travel from New Delhi in northern India up the Ganges to its major source in the Kumaon Himalaya.

The objective of our expedition is to climb routes on the south face of Purbi Dunagiri (6489m) and the northern/western aspect of Changabang (6864m).

Purbi Dunagiri and Changabang are part of the Kumaon Himalaya, in the Uttaranchal State of India. The Kumaon forms the eastern section of the Indian Himalaya and is adjacent to Nanda Devi, the highest peak wholly within Indian borders. Changabang is also part of the “rim” of the “Nanda Devi Sanctuary”, a protected area.

Access to the peaks is from the West Branch of the Bagini Glacier. This drains into the Dhauli Ganga (river) and into the Alaknanda Ganga, the major tributary of the Ganges River.



Brought to you by:

“In August this year a group of Kiwi climbers are off to India to attempt two peaks in the Garhwal Himalaya of India. Brian Alder, Craig Jefferies, Kester Brown, Adam Darragh and Marty Beare plan to climb new routes on Purbi Dunagiri (6489m) and to repeat the West Ridge and North face of Changabang (6864m) – routes pioneered by the Pete Boardman & Joe Tasker in 1976, and Mick Fowler and friends in 1997.

The Wanaka Mountain Film Festival is proud to support the team’s venture and will be hosting a charity auction, with many great opportunities and items going to the highest bidders. Proceeds from the auction will go towards the expedition and also to the Wanaka Youth Group known as Kahu Youth Trust. Bring your wallet and be in to get some huge bargains!

The first $500 raised will go to the Kahu Youth Trust’s journey to the Tibetan Children’s Village in Dharamsala, India, to work with the children and teachers in whatever way is needed…including a donation and educational supplies. They will also visit the child that the Kahu Youth Trust is sponsoring. Please help our local Wanaka youth in this worthy objective.”

Some Photos

June 7, 2007

“There is, on Changabang, a common denominator, a constant thread: breaking with habitual routines, in wild places, with good friends, pushing the limits of endurance and commitment. This is climbing at its finest, and, as with all good climbing, it allows one to return home the stronger and wiser for the adventure.”
Doug Scott – Alpinist Magazine


The north side of Kalanka (L) and Changabang (R). Photo by Zbysek Cesenek

The western and south western aspects of Changabang. The west face route is in profile on the left. This shot was taken by Doug Scott during the 1974 expedition that made the first ascent of the mountain via the east ridge.

Looking up at the west face route. Photo by Roger Payne


Allan Uren aiding through the Barrier on the West Face route, 2002. Photo by Brian Alder